06 FEB 2026

Tama Lakes was an unexpected day trip. I had originally booked the Tongariro Alpine Crossing - New Zealand's most famous day hike, and carefully checked the weather forecast before making the five-hour drive to the National Park. The following morning, after enjoying a morning coffee on the balcony of our motel, we received disappointing news: the crossing had been cancelled due to strong winds.

The receptionist recommended the 6-hour Tama Lakes hike as an alternative to the Tongariro Crossing. "It's beautiful, highly recommend." she said, adding that when the unpredictable Tongariro Crossing is cancelled, many hikers head to this trail instead. I knew little about the track, but with a free day ahead of us and no better alternative, we decided to give it a go.

Before setting off, we checked the track information. The hike to Upper Tama Lake is a 17.6 km return walk. The Department of Conservation estimates it takes around six hours return, making it a full-day hike that is accessible to most people with a reasonable level of fitness. However, the difficulty of the walk depends very much on the weather. On a calm, clear day, the track is relatively straightforward. But take extra care on the final climb from Lower Tama Lake to Upper Tama Lake. The ascent is steep and exposed, with some sections becoming quite slippery underfoot. A walking pole can be helpful for maintaining balance, particularly on the descent. Despite the Tongariro Crossing being closed due to strong winds, we still encountered gusty conditions on the ridgeline, a reminder that mountain weather can change quickly and should never be underestimated.

This was the first section of the hike. The track was relatively flat and easy to walk. In the distance stood the iconic Mount Ngauruhoe, known to many as Mount Doom from The Lord of the Rings films. a distinctive alpine lenticular cloud wrapped itself around the summit like a flying saucer, obscuring the mountain's full profile.

Tama Lakes is often described as a quieter alternative to the Tongariro Crossing, offering spectacular volcanic scenery without the same level of climbing and the crowds.

The trail crossed some alpine streams, their clear water flowing gently over volcanic rock.

After about an hour of easy, pleasant walking across the open alpine landscape, we arrived at Taranaki Falls, our first destination. While taking in the view, I stopped to read the information panel beside the falls. Around 14,600 years ago, Mt Ruapehu was highly active, producing numerous eruptions. One major andesite lava flow poured down the mountain's northern slopes, filling the Wairere Valley and shaping much of the terrain we see today. The waterfall now plunges 20 metres over the edge of this ancient lava flow into the pool below, a reminder that this peaceful scene was once part of a much more violent landscape.

Both Lower and Upper Tama Lakes are volcanic crater lakes, their waters glowing in a beautiful shade of alpine blue. Lower Tama Lake is more easily accessible. After passing Taranaki Falls, it takes about another hour and a half of to reach the lookout.

Before assceding, we could see a line of hikers slowly making their way up the steep slope. “They look like ants,” my kid said, watching the tiny figures moving along the ridgeline high above us. The track was covered in loose gravel, the ascent was challenging but manageable. The descent is difficult without proper hikig boots.

Personally, I thought Upper Tama Lake was even more beautiful than the lower lake, feels wilder and more remote. There is something satisfying about earning a view through a difficult climb. I wondered if we now looked just as small ants from below.